SAPLING YARD WINES ' PIROUETTE ' CHARDONNAY 2023 ($38 / Tumbarumba, NSW)
Light golden lemon hue and an initial blast of French Oak-derived pencil shavings, grapefruit / lime aromas and flavours grab the senses.
Restrained malolactic treatment and rustic low intervention vinification tame the grippy cool-climate acid component.
The mid-palate is rewarded by a twirling' n 'swirling dance of typical varietal traits, again of grapefruit, green apple and nectarine flavours.
It's currently youthful, fresh and exuberant, albeit with a steely grip but shows cellaring potential and further integration.
This is another medal-worthy Chablis-style cool-climate Chardonnay from Burdett and Rodeghiero.
Gilbert Labour